OUGD401: Fashion Photography lecture.

19th Century.
Improvements in halftone printing, meaning that photos can be reproduced in magazines, replacing previous illustrations. 

Paul Poiret pioneered a new type of fashion that moved away for corsets and traditional clothing of the previous era and produced clothes that were much looser in fit.

Work such as those by Adolf de Meyer were influenced by previous pictorial effects, models were to take on a character.

In the 1930's photographers moved away from pictorial effects. 

Martin Munkacski, started to take advantage of the technicalities that cameras could take on, using movement and implementing blurs. Influenced by his interest in sports.

1930's Edward Steichen. Using cameras for its own qualities, ability of the camera to have everything sharp and in focus, ability to experiment with lighting, and using shapes to represent the clothing abstract shapes. The photographs produced in modernism also begin to reflect the outside world, events and movements in society.

La Mode Pratique, first photographed fashion magazine cover in 1938. 

hOYNINGEN-hEUNE, 1931, another example of movement, where extra fabric has been added as an extension to communicate movement, also in the style of greek traditional fashion.

Cecil Beaton (1904-1980) photographs those with unattainable lifestyle, popular and fitting with the decadence that ran throughout the 1920/30's. Worked with the most prominent actresses of the day. Reminds viewers that his photography is a glimpse into a glamorous world that others do not have. To be photographed be Cecil Beaton would be a privilege. Photographs models in their element. Environmental setups, moving away from studios to locations that are made to appear as places of opulence. 

Colour photography available from around 1935, however was less used in fashion photography, and was really only put into use from the 60/70's.

1950's street photography becomes very popular.

1960's produced more photography involved with popular culture.

Terenence Donovan spy drama 1962. Creating a story through photography, influenced by film.
Models become more like the 'girl next door' more accessible by the general public, no longer portraying an unattainable life.

Goes down Interstate 40, Uton, Oklahoma, takes pictures of people along the journey, finds a drifter, and works against previous settings. Photographs the drifter in a studio setting, thus accentuating the idea that he is an unatainable or important figure. Giving him character of almost celebrity status and makes him into a fashion model.

Jamel Shabazz, Back in the days, 2002, published retrospectively, this style of street photography starts to come back and is more popular, photo's originally taken in the 80's. People whom he knows, who he lives with.

Straight up photography, Photographers go out on the street, Derek Ridgers for example and take photos of everyday people in the clothes they are wearing. changed from inaccessible fashion to the fashion entirely relatable to the everyday person.

90's were very popular with the abolishment of photoshopping/airbrushing models called 'heroin chic'. Realness to magazines, and which the general public could relate to.

Juergen Teller (1964) photographing Annie Morton, Photography that appears almost as stills from a documentary, again not editing the photos with after effects such as airbrushing.

Beginning of the 2000's we are intoduced to photoshop, moving towards the potential of the ideal body etc. Offers potential to not only remove flaws, which was previously available, but recontour bodies etc.
Rise of fashion blogging. Emphaisise on blogs in current magazine culture. Idea that everyday people can run blogs, not just those who work within the fashion industry.